P.K.T. Fashion Ltd.
Soft Goods Quality Assurance Manual
2018
The P.K.T. Fashion Ltd. Quality Manual specifies how our technical staff should perform in the company. Everyone within the company is working contained by the same guidelines and therefore maintaining a consistent high level of quality.
Quality statement: Quality in this instance is not just the quality of the product, but quality of all performance related areas:
This manual cannot cover all areas of each job role, but it is hoped that from the information contained within, all staff will be able to make correct decisions and judgments as required.
P.K.T. Fashion Ltd. is dedicated to manufacturing the highest possible quality apparel for our customers. To meet our customers’ expectation and requirements, P.K.T. Fashion Ltd. QA has developed a quality assurance program to achieve the objectives of five critical processes:
Factory evaluation
Quality system and social compliance audit
audit programs.
Technical Assessment
Laboratory testing
Quality Control
Management
will be recognized. Furthermore, the requirements and development of the company can be conveyed.
Merchandising Department
suitable standard/specification can be used for inspection. This can be supported by completing all the specified documents.
Quality Assurance Department
Shipping & Accounting
3.1 Job responsibility of the Technical Team
Technical Manager
Garment Technologist / Technician
3.2 Job responsibility of QC Team
QC manager
QC supervisor
Quality Controller
These activities involve:
QC Coordinator
Prerequisites for proposing a new factory
Merchandise Manager must check the availability of tools as a prerequisite for propose a new factory. No need to propose the factory if they do not own a barcode scanner, a scanner, digital camera and a computer with internet connectivity for online use at factory site.
Request to evaluate a new Vendor/Factory
New Maker and Factory Registration
Attached the Vendor / factory profile to this form and submit to QA manager for factory evaluation. Use one form for one factory only.
Submit to: (QA manager)
Apply by: (Merchandise Manager / Account Executives):
Date of application: (please allow 2 weeks to complete evaluation)
Customer information (provided by P.K.T. Fashion Ltd. Merchandise Manager) | ||||||||||||||||
Customer: | ||||||||||||||||
Payment terms with the customer: | ||||||||||||||||
Payment through P.K.T. Fashion Ltd. (use Y / N) | Customer pay direct to vendor (use Y / N) | |||||||||||||||
3rd party Social compliance audit required? | Yes / No , audit by – | |||||||||||||||
New Vendor information | ||||||||||||||||
Name: | ||||||||||||||||
Address: | ||||||||||||||||
Phone Number: | ||||||||||||||||
Fax #: | ||||||||||||||||
Contact Person | ||||||||||||||||
Trade term | ||||||||||||||||
Payment term | ||||||||||||||||
Ship from country | ||||||||||||||||
Product line (s) | ||||||||||||||||
New factory information | ||||||||||||||||
Name: | ||||||||||||||||
Address: | ||||||||||||||||
Phone Number: | ||||||||||||||||
Fax #: | ||||||||||||||||
Contact Person | ||||||||||||||||
Product type: | ||||||||||||||||
Tools for Online Use: | PC w/ internet | Scanner | Barcode scanner | Digital camera | ||||||||||||
Factory evaluation: | Registration approved by: | |||||||||||||||
Audited by
QC supervisor/ auditor: |
Approved by
QA Manager |
Office G.M. | Merchandise Manager | Managing Director | ||||||||||||
Date: |
Date: |
Date: |
Date: |
Date: |
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*IMPORTANT: Must obtain all signatures for maker/factory activation
The merchandisers are responsible to maintain a style file daily, so that the information’s can easily be accessed by any P.K.T. Fashion Ltd. employees.
The style file can be broken down further into several parts:
The Merchandise Managers can decide their preferable section / sub-section of the style file. All information will be filed into the respective sub-sections.
To keep the full story of the order development, do not remove any previous information from the file. Once a document is superseded it must be crossed through to indicate that a more recent version exists.
The merchandisers are responsible to provide a complete QC file to QA department.
The merchandisers need to set up QC file when receive any form of ‘order confirmation’ from buyers.
To ensure the QA / QC process is handled effectively, all documents for each style are controlled by one filing system. Merchandisers transfer the final confirmed style information to the QC file.
Merchandiser / Senior Merchandiser are responsible for keep the file up to date, and signing it off when it is released to QA dept.
Keep the QC file organized
Remark:
All accessories and fabrics that have been approved must be chopped ‘APPROVED’.
The QC file is a key instrument in the QC procedure. If this document is not completed accurately by both the Merchandising and QA team, inspections cannot be carried out successfully.
Merchandisers must pass the following information to QC to enable them to complete the inspections:
Hand over style files before arranging inspection
A minimum of 2 weeks before the pre-production review meeting, the QC must contact the relevant merchandiser to get the QC file & clarify all details preferable in a meeting or otherwise at least by phone.
Return of QC file to merchandisers
Quality Controllers are responsible for returning the file to QA manager.
Within 1 week after successful final inspection, the QC must return the QC file to the QC manager. After the manager signs off QC reports, the files will be returned to merchandising department.
Factories submit the bulk quality of all fabric and trims for P.K.T. Fashion Ltd. and Customer approval before commence cutting.
No bulk production can begin until the respective merchandiser has signed off the completed fabric / trim card or at least seen and approved all components being put into production.
Factories submit the additional trim cards to P.K.T. Fashion Ltd. merchandisers for reference.
P.K.T. Fashion Ltd. merchandisers are responsible for the sign off trim card to commence bulk productions.
Fabric approval card and trim approval card
As soon as all fabric and trims are received by the factories, a fabric approval card and trim approval card must be completed by the maker.
The fabric approval card and trim approval card should content the approved samples &
approval chop of merchandisers and / or customers.
Fabric & accessories card
For proper color coordination between different materials, factory should put all fabric & trims used for this order on a Fabric & accessories card and submit to P.K.T. Fashion Ltd. merchandisers for review and sign off.
To assess and approve the color of all fabrics and trims used to produce a garment.
This procedure applies to the color assessment done in the factories. The merchandisers should agree and confirm the standard lighting condition. All office managers/ QC managers should maintain a list of standard lighting condition specified by each customer.
Responsibility
Light boxes
All color assessment must be carried out in a light box placed in the dark room or black out curtain.
Metamerism
All colors show up different shades under different light sources, this is known as metamerism. All fabric needs to be checked under yellow light and white light. If white light (D65, CWF) or yellow light (TL 84, U30) as primary source for color assessment, the other light source should be used to check the metamerism. Color submissions must not have any metameric effects using white light and yellow light as illuminate.
Instrumental color assessment
For certain customers, they require a reading of the Data color 600CT spectrophotometer on color assessment. The acceptable color differences between separate dye lots should be:
To ensure consistent shade, swatches from every roll & lot must be collected and placed on the “Color Continuity Card” for color assessment.
All suppliers need to complete the bulk fabric shade band submission.
No bulk production can begin until the merchandiser has signed off the Color Continuity
Factories submit the Color Continuity Cards to P.K.T. Fashion Ltd. merchandisers
P.K.T. Fashion Ltd. merchandisers are responsible for the Color Continuity Cards sign off
When is testing needed?
When is testing not needed?
Mandatory test
Minimum performance requirements
All fabrics & garments must adhere to certain minimum performance requirements. For most buyers’ these requirements are dictated by their testing requirements. For those customers who do not require testing, the minimum performance standards should be enforced.
Minimum Performance Requirements | ||
Test Description | Test Method | Minimum Performance Requirements |
Dimensional stability to Laundering | AATCC 135/150 | Woven fabrics: +/- 3% max. Knitted fabrics: +/- 5% max. |
Dimensional stability to Dry Cleaning | AATCC 158 | Woven fabrics: +/- 3% max. Knitted fabrics: +/- 3% max. |
Appearance Rating | Visual/AATCC 179
Method 2 |
Satisfactory, including no shape distortion, no cross staining and skewing 3% max for woven and 5% max for knits. |
Color fastness to Laundering | AATCC 61 | Color change: 4, Color staining: 3,
Self-staining: 4.5 |
Color fastness to Crocking | AATCC 8 | Dry: 4, Wet: 3 |
Color fastness to Perspiration | AATCC 15 | Color change: 4, Color staining: 3 |
Color fastness to Water | AATCC 107 | Color change: 4, Color staining: 3 |
Color fastness to Light | AATCC 16 | 20-hour test: 3.5 |
Tensile strength | ASTM D5034 | Blouse: 25 lbs Shirt/dress/skirt/pajamas/lining: 30 lbs Outerwear: 37 lbs Trousers/shorts/overall/pocketing: 50 lbs |
Seam slippage | ASTM D434 | Blouse/shirt/dress/skirt: 15 lbs Pajamas/lining: 18 lbs Outerwear/pocketing: 22 lbs Trousers/shorts/overall: 25 lbs |
Seam strength | ASTM D1683 | Blouse/shirt/dress/skirt: 22 lbs Pajamas/lining: 25 lbs Outerwear/pocketing: 30 lbs Trousers/shorts/overall: 37 lbs |
Tear strength | ASTM 1424 | Blouse: 1.5 lbs Pajamas/lining: 1.8 lbs Shirt/dress/skirt/outerwear: 2.0 lbs Trousers/shorts/overall/pocketing: 2.5 lbs |
Bursting strength | ASTM D3786 | Fabric: 40 lbs /sq. inch, Seam: 35 lbs /sq. inch, |
Pilling resistance | ASTM 3512
– 30 minutes |
3.5 |
Fiber content | AATCC 20/20A | +/- 3% tolerance for blends; No tolerance for single fiber |
Fabric weight (g/m2) | ASTM D3776 | +/- 5% of specification |
Formaldehyde content | JIS L 1041 | Garments with contact to skin < 75 ppm
Other garments < 300 ppm |
Lead content (scrapable surfaces only; children only) | 16 CFR 1500.3 | < 600 ppm |
Azoic Dyes | Zero tolerance |
11.2 Responsibility of QC for laboratory testing
QC manager must be informed of any failed test so appropriate measures can be taken before cutting of fabric. All options need to be reviewed on a case-by-case basis. It is important the issues can be discussed openly between QC, QA and MR before cutting, so something can be done.
Be proactive
In many cases, the fabric can still be rectified by the mill and in other cases we can alter the garment to limit the problem. For example,
Internal testing report sharing
All QC files must contain a copy of the testing report, if testing is required for this customer. The QC should not accept files without it and hold production until they have it.
All incoming fabric including main fabric and trim fabric must be temporarily quarantined to prevent their use before any required inspection and testing is carried out. Testing and inspection must be carried out to the customer requirements.
All factories need to complete the fabric inspection before cutting. No bulk production can begin until the factory merchandiser / QC manager has signed off the completed bulk fabric card and obtain P.K.T. Fashion Ltd. approval.
12.1 4-point system fabric
The 4-point system is applied to allow the factory technical staff to make correct decisions and judgments regarding the quality of fabric and trim fabric. The factory QC manager and fabric inspector are responsible to implement this procedure in their factories.
Procedure
Visual inspection for fabric defects
Pass or fail
The rolls of fabric pass if the total defective units do not exceed 40 points per 100 square yards.
If the amount exceeds the allowable amount, the inspector should advice the vendor. A 100% inspection is required to sort the defective and put the quality level right before shipment. In this case, re-inspection is needed.
Fail if the penalty of defects exceeds 40 points per 100 square yards.
The pass grade of the fabric lot is 40 points per 100 square yards. This is calculated by the following formulas:
Woven: total points x 36 x 100 = points/ 100 sq.yds sample yardage (yards) x width (inches)
Knit: total points x 100 x fabric weight (g/m²) = points/ 100 sq.yds sample weight (lbs) x 543
Responsibility
Procedure
12.2 Fabric quality standard
There are 2 Acceptable Quality Level depend on the customer requirements
The following AQL table is applied to determine the acceptance of fabric lots
ISO2859
ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 (MIL-STD-105E) Single Sampling Plans
Normal Inspection, Level I
Normal standard | Tightened standard | ||
AQL | AQL 4.0 | AQL 2.5 | |
Lot Size | Sample Size | Maximum Allowable Major defective | |
51 – 280 | 13 | 1 | – |
281 – 500 | 20 | 2 | 1 |
501 – 1,200 | 32 | 3 | 2 |
1,201 – 3,200 | 50 | 5 | 3 |
3,201 – 10,000 | 80 | 7 | 5 |
10,001 – 35,000 | 125 | 10 | 7 |
35,001 – 150,000 | 200 | 14 | 10 |
4 – Point system
The following standard is applied to evaluate the acceptance of defect.
Defects 3 inches or less | 1 point |
Defects exceed 3 to 6 inches | 2 point |
Defects exceed 6 to 9 inches | 3 point |
Defects exceed 9 inches | 4 point |
12.3 Fabric quality standard
Key fault areas
Any roll found with following defects shall be rejected.
On site crocking test
By AATCC crock meter method
Minimum acceptable standard
Dry crocking test rate 4 on the grey sale for staining
Wet crocking test rate 3 on the grey sale for staining
Packing inspection
On each order QA should perform the following formal & complete inspections. P.K.T. Fashion Ltd. QC staff should ensure the inspections being done in timely manner and reduce the cost by “Get it right the first time” policy.
Pre-production review meeting
Line setting / First In-line inspection:
In-Line inspections:
Checking top samples:
Pre-Final inspection:
Crucial: to avoid any last minute problems.
Final inspection:
A pre-production meeting must be held 2 WEEKS before cutting to review the all production specifications and set up action plan to load the new style into the production lines.
The following persons will be required to attend the meeting:
P.K.T. Fashion Ltd. personnel
Factory personnel
The following information must be available for the meeting to take place:
There will be group discussions on all aspects of manufacturing the new garment and any potential problems highlighted:
All quality points and action plan must be recorded on the Minutes of Pre-Production Review. The representative of the factory needs to sign the form and keep a copy for future reference.
The PPR-meeting is the last chance to avoid major mistakes in production. Make mock-ups to double check before production starts. Visual standards will be signed off and provided to production line as reference.
All production must comply with the style details and production method as the sample approved by P.K.T. Fashion Ltd. QA department. In addition, production items must comply with these standard make specifications.
Seams and Stitching
formation. Seams must not “grin”. Stitches must not crack when seams are stretched.
operator technique must be correctly adjusted to avoid this problem.
to be removed from inside and outside the garment.
Buttons and Buttonholes
sewing thread.
diameter + 1/8″ but for high button + 1/4″.
positioned in the end of the buttonhole if used as an positional aid, to ensure consistent
alignment.
Waistband clips (hook and bar)
Waistbands
Slide Fasteners
Fly Construction
Darts
Hems
Accessories, Trims and Appliqué
are concealed and no puckering is evident.
Collar
required shape or stitch around.
without breakouts occurring. Collars must be carefully pressed to set shape.
shoulder to neck edge has a maximum tolerance of 5mm
properly. This gap should not exceed 5mm.
General Appearance
Knitting of sweaters
Cutting process
relaxed for around 12 ~24 hours, depending on the type of fabric.
sure the height is suitable for the type of fabric (usually 2~3 inches and never more
than 5 inch).
not folded.
Sewing process
and how to make it correctly, before large quantities of garments are finished.
Check Buttoning:
Check Pressing
The washing process directly affects the quality of the washed garment. It must be ensured that these processes are carried out under a controlled condition. Customer, merchandising, suppliers, washing mills and QC should work together to agree a standard for this controlled condition.
Merchandiser should guide the supplier to fulfill all approval processes. This includes:
Approval color shade band
Documentation of the standard condition for washing and finishing
To ensure an effective QC of fabric and washing quality, the customer, P.K.T. Fashion Ltd. and factories must have equal expectations regarding fabric quality and washing standard:
Fabric quality
Washing quality
Monitoring and control
QC team should tighten the control on all outgoing shipments by the following steps:
QC should not release the shipment if they find the following major faults:
All factories are required to conduct the cut part inspection. P.K.T. Fashion Ltd. QC will do a system audit to ensure the procedure is adhered at all time. The cut part inspection is necessary to maintain the correct measurements of the garments.
The responsibility for the implementation and maintenance of this procedure lies jointly with the following departments:
Procedure
Cutwork tolerances
The cutting tolerance varies by customers, fabrication and styling. QC staff should agree the tolerance with factories before cutting.
Before production commences, the factories should conduct fusing tests to ensure the fusing machines are set correctly to prevent de-lamination or over strike of fusible interlining.
Fusing machine must be set up for the above conditions, using thermal strips. No production must commence without a fusing machine test has been carried out at the appropriate time.
Batches which are fused in between test times must be color coded to aid identification / recall in the event of a fusing machine test failure.
RESPONSIBILITY
PROCEDURE
The suppliers fusing test specification report must be available for reference (in close proximity to the fusing machine) for the following:
14) The labeled washed sample will be retained on file for Inspection upon request
To ensure the sewing lines are set up correctly to produce the right products conform to the technical specifications and approval samples. P.K.T. Fashion Ltd. QC should work together with the factory production personnel at the sewing lines to sign off work standards and train sewing operatives with correct sewing technique.
An inline inspection is conducted while work is in progress. This is to identify and resolve problems in manufacturing to prevent garment rejects. This includes:
The inspection procedure should be systematic and include these steps:
QC Inspector must complete an inspection report to include:
This report must be filed at the front of the QC file.
QC should fax or email the failed inspection reports to the attention of the QC coordinator no later than 1 day following the inspection. QC manager / supervisor should discuss with merchandising if the problem cannot be rectified.
The customers have their specific requirements for top samples. Different customer may use different terminology such as rack samples / shipment samples / gold seal samples but the submission procedure is more or less the same. Following is the typical example of the Top sample procedure.
Top samples send by factories
As soon as the first batch is completed the factory should send 2 sets of top samples to P.K.T. Fashion Ltd. merchandisers. One full color set is to be sent to customers following a complete inspection and the other set is a ‘keep’ for the office. The samples must be sent including complete packing accessories, like hang tag, hanger, poly-bag & UPC.
Checking of Top samples
While the actual sending to our office can be left to the factory in most cases, the QC is responsible for checking the samples and should follow-up on the prompt delivery to our merchandisers.
All “keep” top samples and QC reports will be kept by merchandisers.
If there are multi shipments for the same style, a new top sample is required per each shipment.
Availability of Top sample before Final inspection
Merchandiser must obtain Top Samples from the factory before they can arrange the final inspection. QC will check with merchandisers if the customers have signed off the Top Samples.
The P.K.T. Fashion Ltd. uses the AQL (Acceptable Quality Level) random sampling plan for quality audit of our products. It is based on the ISO2859 / BS 6001 / DIN 40080 / ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 (MIL-STD-105E) sampling procedure. This is a random sampling inspection method and is the most widely recognized method of sampling by attributes based on the mathematical theory of probability. The procedure provides the number of samples to be inspected in a given lot / shipment size. It also provides specific criteria for acceptance or rejection of a shipment/lot based on the number of defects found, and provides a fair assessment, to both buyers and sellers, of product quality.
Key definitions
Audit: the inspection and examination of products to ensure compliance to requirements
Lot / batch: group of items for inspection.
Defect: a deviation from requirements.
Defective: a unit of product that contains one or more defects. The quality of any given quantity of product is expressed either as the percentage defective or as the number of defects per hundred units.
Sampling plan: a specific plan that indicates the sampling sizes and associated has acceptance or no acceptance criteria to be used.
Accept Number: the maximum number of defects allowable in a sampling lot for the lot to be acceptable
Rejection number: the smallest number of defectives (or defects) in a sample or samples under consideration that will require the rejection of the lot
Classification of defects: the listing of possible defects in a unit, classified according to their seriousness e.g. critical, major & minor
Acceptable Quality Level (AQL)
In a continuing series of lots, Acceptable Quality Level is a quality level that, for the purpose of sampling inspection, is the limit of a satisfactory process average.
Acceptable quality level is the ‘only just acceptable’ quality, i.e. the minimum quality that can be considered acceptable as the average quality level of the production. However, the designation of an AQL does not imply that the manufacturer has the right to knowingly supply any defective product.
23.1 AQL Table
For workmanship check – the workmanship will be checked against the following table:
ISO2859
ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 (MIL-STD-105E) Single Sampling Plans
Normal Inspection, Level II
Functional | Major | Minor | ||
AQL | 0.65 | 2.5 | 4.0 | |
Lot Size | Sample Size | Maximum allowable defectives | ||
91 – 150 | 20 | 0 | 1 | 2 |
151 – 280 | 32 | 0 | 2 | 3 |
281 – 500 | 50 | 0 | 3 | 5 |
501 – 1,200 | 80 | 1 | 5 | 7 |
1,201 – 3,200 | 125 | 2 | 7 | 10 |
3,201 – 10,000 | 200 | 3 | 10 | 14 |
10,000 – 35,000 | 315 | 5 | 14 | 21 |
35,001 – 150,000 | 500 | 7 | 21 | — |
For measurement check – the measurement will be checked against the following table:
ISO2859
ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 (MIL-STD-105E) Single Sampling Plans
Normal Inspection, Level I
Critical measurements | Non-Critical measurements | ||
AQL | 2.5 | 4.0 | |
Lot Size | Sample Size | Maximum allowable garment that out of tolerance | |
151 – 280 | 13 | 0 | 1 |
281 – 500 | 20 | 1 | 2 |
501 – 1,200 | 32 | 2 | 3 |
1,201 – 3,200 | 50 | 3 | 5 |
3,201 – 10,000 | 80 | 5 | 7 |
10,000 – 35,000 | 125 | 7 | 10 |
35,001 – 150,000 | 200 | 10 | 14 |
Packing check – the packing accuracy will be checked against the following table:
ISO2859
ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 (MIL-STD-105E) Single Sampling Plans
Normal Inspection, Level I
Mail order | Retail | ||
AQL | 1.5 | 2.5 | |
Lot Size | Sample Size | Maximum allowable major defectives | |
151 – 280 | 13 | 0 | 0 |
281 – 500 | 20 | 0 | 1 |
501 – 1,200 | 32 | 1 | 2 |
1,201 – 3,200 | 50 | 2 | 3 |
3,201 – 10,000 | 80 | 3 | 5 |
10,000 – 35,000 | 125 | 5 | 7 |
35,001 – 150,000 | 200 | 7 | 10 |
To ascertain that the quality level of a bulk order is acceptable for shipment, inspections are completed on all orders to ensure that the quality of the bulk production is as agreed at approval sample stage.
The final inspection plan will take place when production at least 95% of the products packed. The quality and quantity of products are check against the order, quality standards and approval sample.
The procedure should be systematic and include these 8 steps:
Step 1: Check outer packaging
Step 2: Check inner packaging and assortment
o Is there a correct logo?
o Is there a correct label size?
o Are there correct labels with fiber content and wash care instructions?
Classification of defect – labeling and packaging
LABELLING AND PACKAGING | ||
Code | DEFECT | CLASSIFICATION |
L1 | Incorrect or missing main label | Major |
L2 | Incorrect or missing country of original label | Critical |
L2 | Incorrect or missing fibre content label | Critical |
L3 | Incorrect or missing care label | Critical |
L7 | Incorrect or missing swing ticket, price ticket, UPC sticker | Critical |
L3 | Incorrect size label | Major |
L4 | Label not secure | Major |
L6 | Labels not in correct position | Major |
L8 | Incorrect multiple item packs | Major |
L9 | Carton box, too big or too small | Major |
L10 | Carton board too thin, box crashed | Major |
L11 | Incorrect display box | Major |
L13 | Wrong shipping mark | Major |
Correct labeling is extremely important. This is usually a legal requirement and buyer will have a zero tolerance for defects on this point.
Step 3: metal detection
Purpose
To ensure no metal contamination in finished products which would hurt the customers and cause claim or legal actions against the P.K.T. Fashion Ltd. and vendors / factories
Responsibility
The responsibility for the implementation and maintenance of this procedure lies jointly with the following departments:
– Line supervisors
– Pin controller
– Production Manager
– Factory QC manager
Procedure
Manufacturers should use conveyor type metal detectors to scan all products. The metal detection can ensure all packed goods contain no extraneous metal objects. Manufacturers should maintain calibration and metal contamination logbooks for the past 12 months.
Calibration of the metal detector
Put a 1.2 mm steel ball through the aperture of the metal detector. Put the steel ball through the top / middle / bottom and left / centre / right of the aperture, this is known as the 9- point sensitivity test.
Conduct the 9 point sensitivity test before start metal detection or every 2 hours when the machine in use.
Method of metal detection
Do the metal detection twice in two orientations.
Program step for P.K.T. Fashion Ltd. QC
P.K.T. Fashion Ltd. QC must put the random sample through the metal detection before doing open the poly-bag for inspection. This is a mandatory procedure for the following items:
QC completes the Metal Contamination Log Sheet by each style. QC should keep the finished record in the QC file.
Step 4: Check styling, material & color combinations
Presentation – compare the production sample against approval sample
Components and Trims – Check the production sample to fabric and trim cards
Color assessment – check dye lot variation
Step 5: Unit weight check (for flat knit sweaters only)
3 random pieces per size must be weighted and an average for the whole order must be calculated. This average cannot deviate more than 5% of the agreed weight in the order.
Step 6: Check Measurements
Check the measurements to ensure that the finished garments are within tolerance. The garment will be classified as ‘reject’ if any measuring point found exceeds the tolerance.
Critical Measurements
For certain measurement discrepancies, they will badly affect the fit of the garment. These measurements are classified as “critical”. It is required to highlight the critical measurements on the reports with an * so everyone can draw a special attention on this.
Following is the list of the critical measurements:
For tops:
– Chest / bust |
– Across shoulders |
– Hem / Sweep |
– Garment length |
– Across Front
– Armhole |
– Across Back
– Neck width |
– Sleeve length
– Neck Drop |
– Sleeve opening |
For Bottoms:
– Waist relaxed |
– High hip |
– Low hip |
– Thigh |
– Inseam
– Leg opening |
– Out seam
– Hem / Sweep |
– Front rise | – Back rise |
Sampling plan for measurement checks
Measure a minimum of 1 unit per color per size for all measurement points. At least measure 3 units for each size.
Example 1:
An order with 8 sizes and 5 colors,
The random sample is 1 units X 8 sizes X 5 colors = 40 units.
Example 2:
For the order with 8 sizes and 2 colors, apply the rule of “At least measure 3 units for each size’ here.
The random sample is 3 units X 8 sizes = 24 units, which include 2 colors.
Take the full measurements of 2 garments for each size. Measure the critical measurements for the balance of the random sample.
Acceptance decision
The acceptance will be assessed by checking the conformity of measurements to the size specification.
Pass – if all measurements of the random examples meet the specification.
Fail – if any measurement point is found out of tolerance.
2nd audit
If the first measurement check failed, it is required to check further on those measurements which are out of tolerance consistently. Draw a new random sample based on the AQL method, Single Sampling Plans, Normal Inspection, Level I to decide the acceptance.
The acceptance of measurements is judged per color per size per measuring point. Check the measurements of the particular color / size that were out of tolerance during the 1st audit and make conclusion of acceptance accordingly.
Critical measurements | Non-Critical measurements | ||
AQL | 2.5 | 4.0 | |
Lot Size | Sample Size | Maximum allowable garment that out of tolerance | |
281 – 500 | 20 | 1 | 2 |
501 – 1,200 | 32 | 2 | 3 |
1,201 – 3,200 | 50 | 3 | 5 |
3,201 – 10,000 | 80 | 5 | 7 |
Standard measurement tolerances
All production must comply with the style details and production method as the sample approved by P.K.T. Fashion Ltd. QA Department. In addition, production items must comply with standard measurement tolerances as specified by customers.
In case the customers do not specify the measurement tolerance, P.K.T. Fashion Ltd. standard measurement tolerances will be applied. Appropriate measurement tolerances are determined by the P.K.T. Fashion Ltd. QC manager. The following factors will be considered:
Two Levels of Control on Tolerances
According to the fabric types and degree of distortion after treatment, the measurement tolerances are controlled on two levels:
Level 1 – Slight distortion garment
Level 2 – Easily distorted garment
Tolerances for tops
measurement | level 1 | level 1 | level 2 | level 2 |
Body length | 1/2″ | 1.3cm | 1″ | 2.5cm |
Body width (1/2) | 1/2″ | 1.3cm | 1″ | 2.5cm |
Waist width (1/2) | 1/2″ | 1.3cm | 1″ | 2.5cm |
Bottom width (1/2) | 1/2″ | 1.3cm | 1″ | 2.5cm |
Sleeve length | 1/2″ | 1.3cm | 3/4″ | 2.0cm |
Armhole (1/2) | 1/2″ | 1.3cm | 3/4″ | 2.0cm |
Sleeve muscle (1/2) | 1/2″ | 1.3cm | 3/4″ | 2.0cm |
Cuff opening (1/2) | 3/8″ | 1.0cm | 1/2″ | 1.3cm |
Total neck circumference | 3/8″ | 1.0cm | 1/2″ | 1.3cm |
Body length for dresses, coats | 1″ | 2.5cm | 1-1/4″ | 3.0cm |
Tolerances for bottoms
Measurement | level 1 | level 1 | level 2 | level 2 |
Waist | 1/2″ | 1.3cm | 1″ | 2.5cm |
Hip (1/2) | 1/2″ | 1.3cm | 3/4″ | 2.0cm |
Tight (1/2) | 3/8″ | 1.0cm | 1/2″ | 1.3cm |
Knee (1/2) | 3/8″ | 1.0cm | 1/2″ | 1.3cm |
Bottom (1/2) for pants | 3/8″ | 1.0cm | 1/2″ | 1.3cm |
Bottom (1/2) for shorts | 1/2″ | 1.3cm | 3/4″ | 2.0cm |
Inseam for pants | 1/2″ | 1.3cm | 3/4″ | 2.0cm |
Inseam for shorts | 3/8″ | 1.0cm | 1/2″ | 1.3cm |
Front rise | 1/2″ | 1.3cm | 1/2″ | 1.3cm |
Back rise | 1/2″ | 1.3cm | 1/2″ | 1.3cm |
Sweep of Skirt | 3/4″ | 2.0cm | 1″ | 2.5cm |
Sweep of Skirt over 80″ | 1″ | 2.5cm | 2″ | 5.0cm |
Step 7: Functional check
Check if the product is suitable for its intended purpose by wearer trial. Try the garment on a person, if not possible, use a dummy instead. This fit check is very important, because this is exactly what the consumer is doing in the store.
Step 8: Workmanship check
Conduct visual examination for workmanship. Check each piece carefully at inside & outside for any possible defects.
The random inspection plan
This is applied to determine the acceptance of a shipment. The main purpose of the sampling procedure is to control the acceptance of products at a quality level that is equal to or better than the acceptable quality level (AQL). It is the ‘only just acceptable’ quality, i.e. the poorest (minimum) quality that can be considered acceptable as the average quality level of the production.
AQL procedure
The sample lot will be checked piece by piece. The defects are marked and classified as critical / major/ minor.
Defects in workmanship are classified as ‘Critical’, ‘functional’, ‘major’ and ‘minor’.
Example of critical defects
Example of Major defects
Example of Minor defect
Critical faults are always un-acceptable with zero tolerance.
These garments must be rejected completely.
Common Sense & Judgment
In addition to current legislation and the specific requirements of the customers, it is assumed that “common sense” is the best guide when deciding whether a defect or feature is to be classified as critical.
It is recognized that certain features or defects may vary in their degree of severity to the extent that “best judgment” must be used to determine whether a defect is major or minor.
When in doubt, the default decision should be based on the more severe classification.
If classification defect cannot be determined during the inspection, P.K.T. Fashion Ltd. QC should send garment sample or digital photos to QC managers and merchandisers for further judgment.
The acceptability of a shipment is determined by the nature and number of defects found in the selected random sample.
A random sample is selected from the finished lot. The random sample lot will be checked piece by piece. The defects are marked and classified as critical / functional / major/ minor. The product will be classified as defective by the following standard:
The P.K.T. Fashion Ltd. AQL is:
Critical defect – zero tolerance
Functional defect – AQL 0.65
Major defect – AQL 2.5
Minor defect – AQL 4.0
The counting of “major defect” should include “functional defect” which is controlled by AQL 2.5
The number of defectives will be recorded and compared with the AQL Table. If the number of defectives falls within the permissible number in the specified lot size, the shipment will be passed. If the number exceeds the permissible number, the shipment will be rejected.
For example:
GIVEN: An order of 2000 garments
AQL standard: AQL 0.65 for functional, AQL 2.5 for major and AQL 4.0 for minor METHOD: ISO 2859, Single Sampling Plan for Normal Inspection – Level II Inspected unit: 125 garments
The shipment can be rated as “Pass”. The maximum allowable defectives are:
The shipment will be classified as “FAIL” if
The following pages that describe the types of defect and their severity are not intended to cover every type of fault. Experience has shown that 99.9% of all shipments that contain substandard or poor quality do so as a result of one or more of the specific faults listed in this section.
The quality control of merchandise is based on the standards contained in this document. If the supplier through a recognized, disciplined process of quality control applies these guidelines, the likelihood of substandard or poor quality merchandise reaching a client is almost eliminated.
The types of defect are grouped under 5 fault categories:
27.1 Fault categories and fault codes
Each fault code has been given a specific reference code. This is to simplify the communication, recording and reporting of defect types.
Critical
Product conformity (Check against approved Sample and Specification) | ||
Code | Defect | Classification |
Z1 | Loose components that could be considered to be choking hazard | Critical |
Z2 | Any component with a sharp edge or point that could cut or cause bodily harm to a customer | Critical |
Z3 | Loose stones in a garment that has been “stone washed”
and which is intended for a child |
Critical |
Z4 | Drawstrings at the head or neck of a garment that is intended for a child | Critical |
Z5 | Any other fault or defect that might cause injury to the end user | Critical |
Wash and wear
Product conformity (Check against approved Sample and Specification) | ||
Code | Defect | Classification |
Q1 | Overall appearance | Major |
Q2 | Fit on Dummy (size/capacity) | Major |
Q3 | Does not satisfactorily complete 5 full performance cycles | Major |
Q4 | Washing or finishing standard | Major |
Q5 | Garment Shape (Knit wear) | Major |
Q6 | Side seam twisted >2 cm or 5% of the length of side seam | Major |
27.1 Fault categories and fault codes
Raw materials and components
Fabric | |||
Code | Defect | Zone A | Zone B |
F1 | Cuts, holes, tears, Broken yarn | Major | Major |
F2 | Weight +/- 5% (knitwear) | Major | Major |
F3 | Handle / softness different to quality standard | Major | Major |
F4 | Print/Design different to specification | Major | Major |
F5 | Wash effect different to quality standard | Major | Major |
F6 | Fabric flaws, Barrie’, weaving faults, slubs longer than 2cm | Major | Minor |
F7 | Colour bleeding | Major | Major |
F8 | Foreign particles caught into the fabric (contamination) | Major | Major |
F9 | Stop marks, broken / missing p ic k and fill in woven | Major | Minor |
F10 | Needle lines in a knitted fabric | Major | Minor |
F11 | Bowing or skewing of the fabric | Major | Minor |
F12 | Knot or repair that affects appearance of the fabric | Major | Major |
F13 | Dye spots that are obviously noticeable | Major | Minor |
Trims – button, stud etc | |||
Code | Defect | Zone A | Zone B |
T1 | Defective, broken, cracked | Major | Major |
T2 | Not as design / specification requirement | Major | Minor |
T3 | Omission of component | Major | Minor |
Zippers | |||
Code | Defect | Zone A | Zone B |
T6 | Incorrect zipper type/size/color used | Major | Minor |
T7 | Zipper not auto-stop as specified | Major | Major |
T8 | Top or bottom metal clip stick out and form a sharp point. | Major | Major |
T9 | Invisible zipper showing due to improper stitching | Major | Minor |
T10 | Zipper end not securely finished. | Major | Major |
T11 | Zipper waving | Major | Minor |
Interlinings | |||
Code | Defect | Zone A | Zone B |
T12 | Strike through – adhesive melts through to face fabric | Major | Major |
T13 | Rippling – corrugation of fabric or fusing | Major | Minor |
T14 | Bubbling – areas of unfused interlining/fabric | Major | Minor |
T15 | Delaminating – fusing peels away from fabric | Major | Major |
T16 | Incorrect color | Major | Minor |
27.2 Fault categories and fault codes
Aesthetics
Color | |||
Code | Defect | Zone A | Zone B |
C1 | Color different to standard | Major | Major |
C2 | Shade bar | Major | minor |
C3 | Shade parts (panel to panel) | Major | minor |
C4 | Off approved shade band (tops to bottoms) | Major | |
Appearance | |||
Code | Defect | Zone A | Zone B |
G1 | Impression marks, glazing, abrasion | Major | Minor |
G2 | Pleats visible, excess crease | Major | Minor |
G3 | Mold | Major | Major |
G4 | Infestation | Major | Major |
G5 | Dampness | Major | Major |
G6 | Excessive odor | Major | Major |
Cleanliness and thread trimming | |||
Code | Defect | Zone A | Zone B |
D1 | Spot cleaning circle | Major | Major |
D2 | Dirt, chalk mark, oil stain over 0.5cm in diameter | Major | Minor |
D3 | Threads not trimmed over 3cm | Major | Minor |
D4 | Excessive quantity and length of loose threads | Major | Major |
Printing | |||
Code | Defect | Zone A | Zone B |
P1 | Design or colour different to specification | Major | Major |
P2 | Printing design not clear | Major | minor |
P3 | Uneven printing (smudging) | Major | minor |
P4 | Printing off registration | Major | minor |
P5 | Cracking of print | Major | Major |
Embroidery | |||
Code | Defect | Zone A | Zone B |
E1 | Design, size, color different to specification | Major | Minor |
E2 | Crooked, tight tension of thread | Major | Minor |
E3 | Uneven in shape | Major | Minor |
E4 | Not level | Major | Minor |
E5 | Off Position over 1cm | Major | Minor |
E6 | Omitted, incomplete | Major | Major |
E7 | Broken, loose stitch, unravelling | Major | Major |
27.2 Fault categories and fault codes
Construction
Layered construction (Pocket/ flap/ Zipper stand/ Placket/ Waistband/ Cuff/ Collar) | |||
Code | Defect | Zone A | Zone B |
A1 | Pleated, twisted or bulging | Major | Minor |
A2 | Distorted, poorly Shaped | Major | Minor |
A3 | Misaligned over 0.3cm (flap over a pocket) | Major | Minor |
A4 | Underneath visible on front (under collar showing) | Major | Major |
A5 | Uneven in width | Major | Minor |
A6 | Fullness unevenly distributed | Major | Minor |
A7 | Paired components not symmetrical in shape or position | Major | Minor |
A8 | Hi Lo over 0.5cm, 2 pockets / yoke seams | Major | Minor |
A9 | Collar points which vary more than 2.5mm | Major | Major |
A10 | Uneven placket width | Major | Major |
A11 | Top and bottom placket uneven in length by 3 mm+ | Major | Major |
Sewing | |||
Code | Defect | Zone A | Zone B |
S1 | Run off stitching, over 2 steps | Major | Minor |
S2 | Twist seam (roping) | Major | Minor |
S3 | Puckering | Major | Minor |
S4 | Open seam (non-inclusion) | Major | Major |
S5 | Wrong sewing thread | Major | Minor |
S6 | Skip stitch | Major | Minor |
S7 | Broken stitch, over 1 step for washed garment | Major | Minor |
S8 | Drop stitch (knit wear) | Major | Major |
S9 | Wrong tension | Major | Minor |
S10 | Raw edge over 1cm (over locking) | Major | Major |
S11 | Distortion | Major | Minor |
S12 | Un-slightly over-lapping stitch (untidy joint) | Major | Minor |
S13 | Misalignment over 0.3cm | Major | Minor |
S14 | Needle damage | Major | Major |
Button / Stud/ Buttonhole / Keyhole | |||
Code | Defect | Zone A | Zone B |
B1 | Incorrect size of buttonhole/keyhole for button/stud | Major | Minor |
B2 | Button/Stud and buttonhole not aligning | Major | Major |
B3 | Button and buttonhole position not as specification required | Major | Minor |
B4 | Incomplete stitching or uncut buttonhole/keyhole | Major | Minor |
B5 | One or more skipped stitches in buttonhole | Major | Minor |
B6 | Buttonhole fraying causing button to catch on thread | Major | Major |
B7 | Buttonhole poorly stitched affecting appearance | Major | Minor |
B8 | Engraved button/stud placed upside down | Major | Minor |
B9 | Buttonhole/Keyhole fraying around edges | Major | Minor |
B10 | Button or buttonhole thread color different to specification | Major | Minor |
B11 | Not attached securely | Major | Major |
P.K.T. Fashion Ltd. QC must complete and sign all copies of inspection reports. The inspection report will be sent to P.K.T. Fashion Ltd. office the next working day after inspection. QA Manager must sign all summary sheets upon return to office and pass the report to merchandisers for shipping and accounting processing.
QC Inspector must complete a 3 page final inspection report to include:
If a measurement falls outside the zone of tolerance, it is circled.
The supplier will be asked to sign the reports and receive a copy. The shipment release letter (SRL) will only be released once results have been reviewed and shipment released.
Accepted
All sheets to be signed by supplier and a copy of the SRL passed over for release of shipment.
Reject
If the goods do not pass inspection, the QC Inspector cannot release the SRL to the supplier.
Without the shipment release letter, factories have no authorization to ship the goods
This report must be filed at the front of the case file and the file returned to Merchandising within a maximum of 1 day following inspection.
In case it takes time to transfer the report to office, QC should fax or email the reports to the attention of the merchandiser no later than 1 day following the inspection.
Immediately following the QC inspection, P.K.T. Fashion Ltd. QC will hold a meeting with factory production personnel to review the result of the inspection.
An authorized representative of the factory must sign the inspection reports to acknowledge their understanding of the QC report:
Inspection results
The P.K.T. Fashion Ltd. QC indicates the inspection results clearly on the QC reports. Merchandising follows up with factory and /or customer if the shipment day is affected.
Passed
Rejected
In case the shipment is rejected, the factory management and QC have to agree a corrective action.
Repairable
The factory will then proceed with this process immediately, and a 2nd final inspection arranged.
Non-repairable
Repairable but time not allowed for the same shipment date to be maintained
Following is the possible outcome:
Signatures
Purpose
To ensure the shipment is released to the forwarders with proper P.K.T. Fashion Ltd. QC sign off.
Scope
No shipment should leave the country without passing our QC inspection. All related departments work closely together to ensure no faulty lot to be shipped to customers.
Responsibility
Procedure